Yearly Archives: 2013

giblet

Visual: Six letters but a lot of little appendages sticking up and down – only one letter (e) without an ascender or descender. A mix of rounds and lines and one little dot.

In the mouth: When I was a kid, I thought this word was pronounced with a “hard” g, like give and gimp. But no, that doesn’t gibe; it has the voiced tongue-tip affricate that makes me think of biting little grains between my front teeth. Not that the teeth are involved in this sound; it’s just that the jaw is in that position. After that start, this word gets the tongue and lips working together before a final crisp tap of the tongue again. The vowels are mid-high and front.

Etymology: This word is said to come from Old French gibelet, which seems to have been a game stew; compare modern French gibelotte, which is a rabbit stew. Where does gibelet come from? No one is sure. It’s just one of those odd bits that appear from somewherever.

Collocations: It doesn’t go with ’n bits; that’s Kibbles. And not Green Giant, either – that’s niblets. No, you’ll find it with gravy and broth and, in plural, with chicken and turkey and sometimes other birds. (You don’t hear of it with larger critters. Why not? Because their innards don’t get included in little paper bags when you buy their meat.) And you’ll often see it near remove and discard – because that, according to many recipes, is what you do with giblets.

Overtones: This word has a variety of echoes, louder and softer. Aside from Kibbles (which may, I suppose, have giblets in them) and niblets (corn) and assorted bibelots (odd little items – giblets may be bird bibelots), you will likely get gibbet, a place where executed criminals were hung for public display and decay – the ostentatious discarding of the offal of society – and perhaps gobbet (a little mouthful) and maybe jib (related to gibbet) and glib and nibble (nibble gingerly at a giblet? If you feel obliged) and perhaps even Gibran, though there’s no profit in that one. The /bl/ might make you think of blood or of humble and umbles and maybe shambles (originally the name of the butchers’ street in old York).

Semantics: Giblets are innards, those bits of the bird you probably discard before roasting (though some people use them in gravy). The first use of this term in English, however, in the 1300s, was to refer to “an unessential appendage” (per Oxford), which to my mind makes the gibelet derivation odd. After that, in the 1400s, “garbage, entrails.” And then by the 1500s it’s those bits of the goose (or other bird) that you toss before cooking – including the feet, though those are not usually part of the giblets now.

Where to find it: You will find this word in conjunction with recipes for cooking whole birds. Also occasionally in literary prose in some cute reference to a person’s guts – perhaps “Dana was a cute bird, but if she kept on with these guys she’d end with a knife in her giblets.” It occurs to me that in reference to a human it almost sounds more suitable to small severable appendages found on only half of the species, but that’s not really concordant with the standard sense.

conclave

This is a topical word as I write this: the cardinal electors are, during the day, being locked into their pressure-cooker, the Sistine Chapel, to determine who will bear the keys of St. Peter. They are all sequestered in the Vatican, that enclave in the middle of the Eternal City, locked in debate and prayer and voting. Literally locked in: the doors of the Sistine Chapel are locked.

That is why this gathering is called a conclave: it is held in a conclave. The place it is held is a conclave because it is locked. Here is the key to this word: con ‘together’ and clavis ‘key’. There’s that clasping coarticulation of the /kl/ – so good for occluded and occluding things: clasps, clutches, cloaks, closets of clothes, clouds, cloisters, cliques and clubs (but also clergy and clemency and many other less closed words). We see the clave root in other words too: autoclave, a high-heat, high-pressure cooker or sterilizer – from French marmite autoclave, ‘self-locking pot’ (if you own a pressure cooker, you get the picture); enclave, a territory locked in (surrounded) by other territories; clavicle, the collar bone – over which papal regalia may be draped, such as the keys of St. Peter.

Those keys, yes. They’re on the flag of the Vatican and in assorted other papal places. See a picture of them at en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Emblem_of_the_Papacy_SE.svg. Did St. Peter carry those keys? No, they symbolize what Jesus said to Peter in Matthew 16:19: “I will give you the keys of the kingdom of heaven, and whatever you bind on earth will be bound in heaven, and whatever you loose on earth will be loosed in heaven.” It is perhaps fitting, then, that once the new pope is elected, the doors of the conclave are unlocked, opening once again to public view the vision of heaven painted on its ceiling by Michelangelo.

But that is not quite yet. The assembled hordes of newspeople outside (keeping their distance so their cell phones work – there are mobile phone jammers under the floor of the Sistine Chapel, preventing any cardinal from live-tweeting the event) will have to key in nothing more than bootless (and red-shoe-less) guesses. They might as well be standing above the Large Hadron Collider while it’s busy smashing atoms. Nothing is known during; only the result is revealed: God particle or God partisan, as the case may be.

The result, in this case, will be known by the colour of smoke produced by a special stove. The bells of St. Peter’s will also ring. I do not think anyone will blow a conch, but it would seem suitable, if it were done in the right key.

Letters you may not have known

Regular readers of my word tasting notes and blog entries have probably heard about the old letter thorn, þ. As it happens, there are several other letters that are – or have been – used with the Latin alphabet in English and other languages. Come meet nine of them in my latest article at TheWeek.com:

9 compellingly strange letters you don’t know about

I plight thee my troth

This, obviously, is not one word but five. But these five travel together; indeed, one seldom sees plight as a verb outside of this statement, and troth is almost never seen elsewhere. Put together, this sentence is a magical formula. In the right circumstances, the simple act of utterance of it effects a state change: said in turn by two people, it turns two single persons into two married persons. I can vouch for its effectiveness. Aina and I said it more than 12 years ago and we’re still married, and happily so.

This is, then, what linguists call a performative utterance. It requires specific conditions of felicity: an officially enfranchised and suitably conducted ritual, led by a person vested with the power to do so by the necessary bodies (in our case it was the Estonian Evangelical Lutheran Church in Canada, and consequently also the applicable civic, provincial, and national governments). When we rehearsed the lines in advance, they did not make us married any more than an actor saying this to an actress on the stage as part of a play script would. Certain notions of witches require a magic cauldron to be simmering with the various animal bits before their incantations will have effect, and even Harry Potter must wave a wand. (And Samantha in Bewitched? She had to wiggle her nose or nothing happened.) Likewise, it was only when we were in the actual official ritual that the words worked their magic.

Ritual does not require tradition to be legally effective; it just requires legislation. But in order for a ritual to have personal emotional and spiritual significance, it is very valuable for the ritual to have a rich history, one established in the mists of past time. Many ritual incantations use an old, dead language, one that cannot be debased by being the common coin of daily usage. This is not utterly necessary; for many people, I do is a sufficient spell to change their matrimonial state. But there is a solemnity in a language that is worn with the sweat and dirt of ancient times but has no smell of the modern street. Latin is one such. The language of this spell, I plight thee my troth, is another.

But it’s English! Yes, it is. So tell me: how would you use plight, thee, and troth in a sentence – other than this one? Can you give me a good paraphrase of I plight thee my troth? This sentence is English like a Georgian farthing is money. It is money, yes, but not money you can use in circulation today, nor even money that adheres to the same system used today (a farthing being a quarter of a penny, but an old penny, of which twelve made a shilling, of which twenty made a pound). But, for just that reason – and its antiquity – although you can’t use a farthing at face value, you can exchange a good old one for much more than 1/960 of a pound now. And so likewise this spell lets a person in for not just an ordinary promise but a life-changing state change.

Let us look at its parts. I will leave I and my aside; they are good modern English, descended from Old English ic and min. Thee is also a good old pronoun descended barely changed from Old English, but it is not used in Modern English except in texts that have survived from old times. And what texts are those? Generally texts associated with ritual, texts that were established long ago and have been retained. These texts, which were in contemporary – if poetic – English when they were written, have in the intervening centuries accumulated much of what may be called “beauty and mystery.” Do you know what else has been called “beauty and mystery”? The centuries of soot, grime, and failed restoration attempts that clouded the Sistine Chapel ceiling so badly it was dim and hard to perceive. Cleaning and restoration of that artwork to its original state was decried by some as a great loss. They did not want something fresh, bright, and alive; they wanted what seemed to them to have always been there, the dim hand of past ages. Likewise many people cling to the King James Bible, although it is now in archaic language. The texts it translated were not in archaic language for their time. They were in fresh, direct language. But it spoke of times when things changed, when old rituals were overturned and new rituals were established. Those new rituals of then have become our old rituals of now. Most people do not want old rituals overturned; they just want old rituals. So the dragonflies of past times are preserved in amber for present eyes to venerate.

Venerate! If you wish to venerate someone, what pronoun do you use to speak to them? Many people will say thou and thee, as they know it as the term one uses to talk to God. But thou and thee were in their time terms used to speak to one’s servants, one’s children, one’s friends; one’s elders and superiors were ye and you. Note that God was a thou. Nowadays, the wedding vow I plight thee my troth uses a friendly, familiar term – that sounds like a formal address in high-flown speech.

Now, what is plight? How have you ever used it? In the plight of the [something or other], I suspect. What is a plight? A perilous or dangerous or risky situation. A situation with a sense of fright, one that may have a person pleading. How do we seem to be using it here? To mean ‘pledge’. So is plight related to plea or pledge? Yes and no. The noun plight comes from two different sources, one an Anglo-Norman sense related to plea and referring to condition or state, the other a Germanic sense referring to risk and responsibility. The verb plight is based on the latter, and signifies putting someone or something under risk. It partakes of the [pl] not of pleasing and pleasurable but of plea, pledge, and the pleading please. It is a polite word, but it declares that the speaker is will to stand at risk.

And troth? It must be an old word; it ends in oth, like doth and Goth and reminiscent of all those eth verb endings. It has an echo of trough, but it seems not to feed on it much. You would do as well to bring in both, since in this phrase it binds two together. This phrase is an apodictic utterance: it establishes a clear, incontrovertible truth – it establishes it by creating it, much as saying “I am speaking” makes itself true. It is true that not everyone who has said I plight thee my troth has held true to their vows, but at the time of utterance it binds. So what is troth? Is it marriage? A person who is engaged is, after all, betrothed.

A person who is engaged is betrothed just because he or she has had troth plighted (the promise made in engagement, which could also use the same formula as the one made in wedding). A troth has been bestowed. But the troth is… you want the truth? It is the truth. Troth and truth are so much alike because they were once the same word. Troth is faithfulness, loyalty, honesty. Troth is not something you just trot out. It is something that is a commitment. It is something you plight.

So the magic spell could be I promise you I will be true. There’s nothing keeping it from being that other than the weight of tradition. Those who prefer to write their own wedding vows are free to use those words: I promise you I will be true. They are direct words in the language of today, and when you say them they have a direct connection to a meaning that you actually mean. They are money you can spend. Give someone a valuable old coin and it has history and beauty and a sense of timeless significance. Give someone a crisp new $100 bill and it feels like you’re giving them money. Both have their effects. You make the choice.

Aina and I were married in a Lutheran church (her home church), and so we happily went with their ritual text… after our prelude of music by Philip Glass, and after we walked up the aisle side by side to music by Vivaldi. And she did not change her name. It was a coming together of two independent beings, not an acquisition. But we like the phrase I plight thee my troth. It’s what we said. And we meant it. Even though it would have worked its magical state change even if one or both of us had fingers crossed.

Thanks to Jim Taylor for suggesting today’s theme.

Mind your X’s and Q’s

Today I would like to direct your attention to my latest article on TheWeek.com:

The perplexing pronunciations of words with X’s and Q’s

Wherein I talk about how and why q and x are pronounced in many different ways in different languages.

A Word Taster’s Companion: Huh. Is that all? Uh-uh.

Today: the fourteenth installment of my how-to guide for word tasting, A Word Taster’s Companion.

Huh. Is that all? Uh-uh.

What’s left? Is that it? Not even close. There are many sounds that people use in language that we haven’t touched. Most of them can be figured out by using new places with the same manners, or new manners with the same places, and a few require even more inventiveness. But while many of them are occasional allophones in English, almost none of them are English phonemes.

Almost none. We do have a couple of sounds left, one of which is definitely a phoneme but is hard to pin down as to its features, and the other of which is easier to pin down for features but may or may not be a phoneme (but is definitely a well-used allophone).

What are they? They are the difference between uh-huh and uh-uh.

That’s a nice minimal pair, as linguists would say. The difference between two opposite things – yes and no – lies in just one sound. The vowels are the same, front and back. To give a thumbs-up, let the air flow through your throat, /ʌhʌ/; to give a thumbs-down, stop it momentarily, /ʌʔʌ/. (You can also say it [ʔʌʔʌ].)

OK, what’s that thing, [ʔ]? It’s a glottal stop. You know the sound well enough. You probably make it in place of the /t/ in button. If you’re a certain kind of British speaker, you make it as an allophone of /t/ in between vowels: [mæʔɜ] for matter, for instance. It stands in for stops in quite a lot of places, in fact; you might even say it for /p/ in yup. You might even use it in something if you say it casually as [sʌʔm] (“supm”). And in some dialects you might use it in place of [h], as in ’Enry.

But is the glottal stop a phoneme – a distinct sound? Or is it just in uh-uh to keep the two vowels as distinct syllables? It’s probably safest to say that [ʔʌ] is an allophone of /ʌ/. But that glottal stop is certainly a sound we use in English!

And how about /h/? It is often called a glottal fricative. The problem is that it doesn’t normally actually involve greater constriction of the airway. And, in English, it doesn’t act like a fricative. English voiceless fricatives can come between a vowel and a stop (mask, raft, wished) and all English fricatives can come at the end of a word (give, biz, rouge), neither of which /h/ can do in modern English (except in special cases like huh and hah, which sometimes end with [h]). In Old English, yes – but that was a thousand years ago. In some other languages it can as well, and for them it’s reasonable enough to treat it as a fricative. But in English it’s its own little special thing, available only by itself at the beginning of syllables (and, in some dialects, often not there). It also has a tendency to be reduced in some circumstances of casual speech to nothing or near nothing. It’s a phoneme, no mistake: you know the difference between an eel on a heel and a heel on an eel. And it’s a consonant – you say a heel, not an heel. But it’s its own special kind of consonant in modern English.

These two sounds, [h] and [ʔ], are a pair notable for their absence not only from the rest of the classification but from actually being heard. Yes, /h/ is audible, but barely, and sometimes not really at all except as a gap in the sound. The glottal stop is simply a break in the flow of the sound: it’s the ultimate absence. There’s not even any enunciatory cue into or out of it – the tongue and lips don’t need to move for it to be made.

It goes without saying that we don’t have voiced variants of these. The surprise is that some languages do have a voiced equivalent for /h/. How is that possible? What it is, in fact, is really a breathy voicing added to the end of the preceding vowel or the beginning of the next. Make a low, lewd laugh – huhuhuhuhuh – and you will likely be alternating between /h/ and breathy voicing.

What do [h] and [ʔ] feel like to say? Exact opposites: /h/ is a perceptible free flow of breath, whereas the glottal stop is a perceptible lack of flow of breath. It does not usually produce a sense of asphyxiation, though it may leave you with extra breath to expel at word’s end. It simply gives a little catch or hiccup in the flow, and there are a variety of flavours that can have. The breath of /h/ will naturally be associated with all things expressed by breathing out: exhaustion, exasperation, excitement, or even ease. It’s so often so gentle as to be just like a brush of a feather – but it always expels extra air, leaving you a little closer to winded.

Next: syllables

at the end of the day

“At the end of the day,” the guy with the orange polyster tie said, “we’re all about value here. Value and quality.”

Maury looked skeptical. This was his first time buying a new car (after all these years), but he had heard stories. “Does it get good gas mileage? All things considered?”

“Well, you know, you drive some in the city, you drive some in the country, but a car you get from us, at the end of the day, it’s going to be economical with the gas.” He leaned his torso in its checked jacket against a counter and took a slug of his coffee.

“What is the service record like, in the long run?”

“I’m telling you, at the end of the day, the cars we sell have better service records than any other make.” He paused, then nodded once for emphasis.

“And yet you’re selling the extra protection warranty. In the final analysis, is that such a good deal, then?” Maury circled the car one more time, running his finger along the detailing.

“You know, if it were just you and the car…” The salesman made a flat wipe with his hand. “You wouldn’t need it. But there are other drivers out there, and nature. Rocks. Ice. At the end of the day, that warranty is a good deal.”

Maury raised an eyebrow and he and I exchanged a glance. This salesman sure was focused on the end of the day. I was wondering if he was impatient to go home. I glanced at the clock: still just early afternoon. Well, people do tend to speak in habitual manners, and fads come and go for clichés. At the end of the day has been in use in its figurative sense at least since the 1970s – but it didn’t take long for the Oxford English Dictionary to include “hackneyed” as part of its definition.

“The handling in difficult conditions?” Maury asked. He opened the driver’s door and sat on the side of the seat.

“At the end of the day,” salesdude said, one arm holding coffee cup leaning against the door frame, “any car you get from us will handle better than any other one you can get.”

“So, in sum, all in all, when all is said and done…” Maury said.

“At the end of the day?”

“Sub specie aeternitatis?” Maury said. The salesman looked at him blankly. “When it comes down to it, is it really the best one for me? Or should I look at a few more?”

“At the end of the day, you won’t find another car that’s better for your needs.”

“And are you really, when it’s all added up, giving me the best deal you can? Are there other plans, other promotions, other incentives –”

“At the end of the day, no.” Salesmeister swept his hands apart smartly. “You won’t come out further ahead than what I’m offering you.”

Maury paused a moment. “Very well, then…”

I didn’t think I could trust the salesman as far as I could throw him. But Maury clearly liked the car, and he was just seeking assurances. The salesman seemed confident and forthright enough to him.

Looking back, though, one thing is clear to us: Maury should have come back in the evening, just before closing. The car Maury bought that afternoon turned out to be a lemon and an open sore on his bank account. Everything the salesman said may have been true… but we’ll never know, because it wasn’t the end of the day.

captious

As you wander through word country, as you pick and serve your delicacies of syntax and lexis, keep an eye open for the snares. There is a subset of the word country population who are there not to nurture and relish but to hunt, trap, capture. They are the catchers, the captors, the cacciatori. They are the captious.

Captious, because they set snares and seize on any small fault they can find. For them, the language is already too capacious and needs to be more rapacious. They have self-printed hunting licences declaring open season at all times. They forge on them the signatures of authorities, but in truth there is no central office, for the language is a common creation, cultivated by all. The jackbooted brigades that these trappers would like to call forth are not to be found; there is only this infestation of the captious, individuals with apparent common cause but in actual disagreement on many points, and their thirst to cavil outweighs their understanding of the subject. True understanding can be gained only by tending and nurturing, not by darting raids on the eggs and seedlings.

There is no fault too small for the captious. Nor need the fault be real: these cacciatore chickens play by invented rules, snaring and bagging on the pretext of imaginary laws that were confected only to give a smirking justification for hanging the language to drain its blood. Hanging from what? Flimsy scaffolds that they pretend are living syntax trees.

You can see them in the wild, scratching out captions and imposing Sharpies on apostrophes. Online you will find even more: the screen captious are the horseflies of cyberspace, buzzing and stinging between the tweets. Today has likely been an extra busy day, as it has been Grammar Day. Imagine: a groaning buffet table of the best and most beautiful of language, set out for all to take, but beset at the edges by the captious, who fling food to the floor, measure distances between dishes, set mousetraps beneath the fruits and cheeses, brandish bodkins at would-be diners. The gastronomy becomes an occasion of paranoia and competition. The gardeners and chefs of words must set out their defences and swat away the parasites.

But while we do not welcome the captious, beleaguerers of words and of word-lovers, we do welcome captious. It is a good word from a decent family with many close resemblances. From the progenitor capere ‘take, hold’ come capture, catch, caption, cacciatore (Italian for ‘hunter’), captor, and captious, among others, as well as cousins such as capable. This crisp word, captious, snaps like a trap or the clap and echo of a gunshot. It is well used to say ‘inclined to find fault on whatever pretext, to entrap’.

When you encounter the captious, as you inevitably will, counsel them: Do not be so captious. And when they start ringing ropes around you on the basis that there must be standards, and unitary enforced standards at that, ask them to start by setting and exemplifying standards for good manners, respectfulness, maturity, and thoughtfulness.

anathema

The first thing to know about this word is that the stress is on the second syllable, and the th is voiceless. It thus sounds very much like the first four syllables of a mathematician.

When I look at it, it appears to me rather like a broad building with columns in its façade and a peaked roof just in the middle – not a clerestory; more like a low steeple, perhaps.

But then I notice the article right in the middle: the. And then I notice the articles in the beginning: an, a. It has all three articles stacked up, followed by ma, which might be a mother or might be the Mandarin particle indicating a question: so it could be an – a – the – ma, speaking of an, no, a, no, the mother; or it could be an, a, the ma? – i.e., asking if it’s an, a, or the.

Small wonder that there might be confusion. This word is in fact typically anarthrous. That is to say, it usually takes no article. It is treated as a mass object. Like garbage, junk, trash, etc.: “Such ideas are anathema to us.” And it can refer to a thing or idea, or to a person (“Such a person is anathema”), or to the act of declaring that the thing or person is anathema – in this last sense, it is countable: “He pronounced an anathema.”

Who or what would be anathema? Most classically, a heretic meriting excommunication. If you look in the Canons of the Council of Trent, you will find that, for instance, anyone who objects to the mass is to be anathema, and of course it follows that objections to the mass are also anathema. I am tempted to say that this is why anathema is a mass object.

But actually the canon law formula, stated quite tidily by Jimmy Akin as “If anyone says . . . <INSERT SOME AWFUL HERESY HERE> . . . let him be anathema,” imports a Greek word into the Latin. That “let him be anathema” is, in Latin, anathema sit (the sit is the third-person singular subjunctive and is used for a third-person imperative, and is gender-neutral), but that word anathema is taken undigested from Greek. It’s sort of like how we borrow food terms from other languages and handle them with kid gloves. “If anything be pickled vegetables cut in small dice and mixed with a small amount of light sauce, let it be antipasto.” The Greek phrase that anathema sit translates is ἀνάθεμα ἔστω, anathema esto. So we have an English word borrowed directly from Latin, which borrowed it directly from Greek, and Latin preserved the Greek phrasing undigested, and English preserved the lack of article from the Latin (although Latin used articles less often than English does).

And where does that Greek phrase come from? The apostle Paul’s letter to the Galatians, first chapter, eighth verse: ἀλλὰ καὶ ἐὰν ἡμεῖς ἢ ἄγγελος ἐξ οὐρανοῦ εὐαγγελίζηται [ὑμῖν] παρ’ ὃ εὐηγγελισάμεθα ὑμῖν, ἀνάθεμα ἔστω. Which means, “But even if we or an angel from heaven should preach a gospel other than the one we preached to you, let him be eternally condemned” (that’s the New International Version translation).

So that’s what anathema means? It would be accurate to say it means ‘accursed’ or ‘consigned to damnation’ or ‘excommunicated’ (Jimmy Akin explains helpfully that anathema sit in canon law does not automatically excommunicate a person; the person must be formally excommunicated in a rather solemn ceremony involving candles being thrown onto the floor, and the person can be formally reconciled if he or she recants – but also, it isn’t in use at all anymore; it was abolished in 1983). In more general use, it tends to mean ‘utterly unacceptable’: “Although Comic Sans is anathema to most graphic designers, the commemorative album for Benedict XVI posted by the Vatican is done entirely in that very font.”

In its sense, then, anathema is a nasty word, and in common usage it is typically constrained into a particular phrasing: X is anathema to Y. It looks like an adjective, and yet dictionaries tell us it is a noun. I suspect that in the minds of many users it is actually an adjective, but that’s not the official edict. One must take it as an article of faith that it faithfully has no article.

Its origin is not actually nasty. The Greek word ἀνάθεμα does mean ‘an accursed thing’, but it comes to that as ‘a thing devoted to evil’, and that is because in origin it just means ‘a thing devoted’ – that is to say, ‘a thing set up’ (up to the gods). The ana is the same as in anagram and anachronism (it means ‘up’) and the thema comes ultimately from the verb τιθέναι tithenai ‘put, set, place’ (and yes, it is related to our word theme). So somehow from ‘set up’ it has come to mean a version of ‘sent down’.

I think Anathema would make a good name for a heavy metal group (I do not mean like actinide and lanthanide). And in fact there is a band of that name who formerly fit into the doom and death metal genres, but now play music that is more in the alternative and progressive genres. Which is kind of funny, because some of the songs they’re playing now would be anathema to many death metal fans. (I leave it to you to YouTube them or not.)

But how does the word feel to you? Iva Cheung, who suggested tasting this word and who has posted a cartoon about it on her blog, finds that the open vowels and the reminiscence of the pattern in ethereal make the word more pleasant in form than in sense. I find that it has a taste of anthem, which has a positive solemnity to it, but I find also that under the influence of its sense the word seems to hiss like a fork-tongued demonic creature – funny how nasty a sound can seem to be if you wish to hear it in that light. The sounds are all so soft, but the sentence so harsh: like the rustling of silk as a robed hand is raised to point to the door through which a person is to be ejected.

Such a contradictory word. And such a word of contradiction and malediction. But your judgement of its flavour is entirely up to you: you are the anathematician.

coulis

What does this word bring to your mind? Perhaps nothing. But if it does bring something, then I wouldn’t be surprised if that something were a tomato coulis, or a red pepper coulis, or a raspberry coulis or some other berry coulis: a fairly thin purée-style sauce without hard lumps or seeds, probably distributed in Jackson Pollock style like jacks and a ball on your jackfruit and pollock, or even more likely in Saturnine or Saturnalian orbit around a chocolate dessert of some sort.

John Ayto, in The Diner’s Dictionary, coolly sets the record straight:

A coulis is a thick purée or sieved sauce made typically of vegetables or fruit (tomato coulis is a common manifestation of it). Nouvelle cuisiners’ penchant for using fruit coulis, especially made from raspberries, at every opportunity has recently made the term familiar to English-speakers, but in fact it first crossed the Channel nearly 600 years ago, in the form ‘cullis’.

Cullis! My, the things one culls. And by what portcullis or port-of-call did it come to England? What was this thing? It was a strong broth made from boiled meat – for example, beef tea (beef tea is a term forever tainted in my ears by its being repeated enthusiastically by an annoying boy android in an episode of an after-school cartoon I watched in my childhood, not that you would care about that).

And a coulis was originally a broth or jelly made from the juices of roasted meat (you now have a new name for that stuff that comes from your roasting pan – it’s not just jus, and, oh, it’s not au jus, which means ‘with juice’: your language is too lumpy if you serve a meat “with au jus”). The key, though, in all cases, is that it’s strained. The source of coulis is ultimately Latin colare, ‘strain, flow through’, source of our word colander.

Do not confuse coulis and coulisse (and do not confuse coulisse and calice, but that’s another thing). A coulisse is any of a few things: a corridor; one of the wings on a stage; the outside traders on the Paris Stock Exchange, and the place they gather; and a groove for a sliding sluice gate. The last of these is likely something you will find somewhere on the Grand Coulee Dam in Washington State.

Coulee, like coulisee, comes from the same Latin source as coulis, but in the case of coulee it’s by way of the French verb couler – cool, eh? A coulee is a ravine or gulch or arroyo or wadi, a sort of grand natural sluice for rain runoff but dry most of the year. This, apparently, is a western Canadian and western American usage. I didn’t know that, and I didn’t know, when I was in high school in Banff, that not even all of my classmates knew the word. I was new in the school in grade 10 (my classmates from Exshaw all went to Canmore, and I was glad not to), and one of the students had the last name Coolie. I remarked to another classmate, “That Coolie is a son of a ditch.” He did not get the joke. But I got a reputation for saying things that didn’t make sense.

Anyway, the Grand Coulee was a great big coulee. I say was because it doesn’t really count as a coulee now. It’s filled with water, thanks to the work of many labourers – men who carried heavy loads here and there, among others. Not waterboys! But also not – perhaps you thought I was going to say – coolies. Why not coolies? Because coolie is, as you likely know, a racist term used pretty much exclusively on Indian (i.e., from India) and Chinese manual labourers, particularly freight handlers and carriers. The word comes from Gujarati and/or Tamil and/or Turkish; it seems a sort of collation of words for an ethnic group, a labourer, and a slave. It was what they called the poor sorts who had to go around (often in broad shallow conical hats) doing hot work while the European colonials coolly oversaw them from the cooler shade while having a cool drink.

So the labourers on the Grand Coulee Dam were not coolies. And their work was to build the dam, not directly to fill the coulee. But the results was that they blocked the Columbia River, displacing many people and obstructing many fish – and permitting the irrigation of many crops and the production of much electricity. Quite the strain; was it worth it?

Imagine, though, if the strain had been not civil engineering on a big coulee but a big colander sieving coulis – filling the Grand Coulee coolly with coulis. Would you say “Raspberries to that”? Would you throw tomatoes? Or would you gulp the gully down your gullet, gorge yourself on the gorge? Or just use it to sauce the fish?