gastropub

Maury and I decided, for the latest in our occasional beer-and-beer-and-food-and-beer sprees, to try the Cobra and Mongoose. Which is a gastropub.

Which of course came up as we were sitting there, surveying our menus, with our pints of local 8.7% microbrews served in improbable Mason jars.

“This is a gastropub,” Maury said, arching one eyebrow as he scanned the food list.

“Not a word I much like,” I said. I looked up and surveyed the surroundings, a pastiche of British Raj and modern Hounslow references somehow reminiscent of the dining room decor of the Pale Man from El laberinto del fauno (misnamed in English as Pan’s Labyrinth).

“Don’t like the air of gastrointestinal, gastroenteritis, gastroileostomy, and so on and so on?”

“And gas,” I said. “It doesn’t help that gastronomy, the source of the gastro, has the stress on the second syllable whereas gastropub has it on the first like all those words having to do with medical things and conditions.”

“You just can’t quite stomach it,” Maury said. Gastro comes from Greek γαστήρ gastér ‘stomach’.

“And it somehow makes the pub, which by itself is fine, sound like burbles from the belly, or a brief eructation or burst of flatulence,” I said.

“I assume you don’t mind that it’s macaronic,” Maury said. By this he meant that it mixes roots from different languages – in this case the pub is short for public house, and public comes from Latin publicus by way of French.

“I do not,” I said, eyes fixed on my menu, “but I’m not sure whether I mind that it’s macaroni.”

“Macaroni?” Maury arched an eyebrow. “I see burgers.”

We exchanged menus. They had separate menus for starch and meat and had given us one of each. Cute. The third menu, lying on the table, proved to be not wine but vegetables. We left it untouched. The beer list was scrawled in chalk on the wall, with daily specials written in dry-erase marker in stall number 3 of the washroom.

“Everyone is doing burgers,” I said, looking at the meat menu. “Oh, look, they also have steak and kidney pie and bangers and mash and all that sort of thing. What’s the deal with the gastro? This is all pub.”

“Fine restaurants are now taking those items onto their menus,” Maury said. “So they are gastro. And apparently it has come full circle now. I think I’ll have the pancakes.”

“What’s special about them?”

“They don’t say. Except that there’s an asterisk. Oh. With foie gras. Hm. I’ll try it.”

“Oh, look,” I said, “Bavarian sausage. Apparently a Gasthaus thing. Which is what a gastropub might have been if they had taken less of gastronomy and the other end of public house.”

A heavy-lidded waiter who evidently went to Medusa’s hairdresser arrived to take our order on his iPhone. Maury went with the pancakes. I went with the sausage with a side of chicken-fried fat. By the time we had taken the foam off our third pints, our gastro had arrived.

“Curry,” Maury said. I looked at his pancakes. They looked normal and plain. “I believe the griddle is seasoned with it,” he explained.

“I remember a restaurant near where I used to work that served curry-flavoured pancakes. Not intentionally.” I started into my sausage. “Currywurst,” I said. Indeed, there was a dusting of curry powder all over the top of the sauce.

“I thought they said Bavarian,” Maury said.

“Currywurst is a Berlin thing, yes, isn’t it,” I said. “They’re all over the map.”

We mounted a proper assault on our food with the aid of pints number four. I further polished off 75% of the jar of Major Grey chutney that they had deposited on the table. By the end of the meal my gastrointestinals were burbling.

“Who do we have to thank for this trend?” I said at last.

“It started in Britain in the early ’90s,” Maury said. “A pub in the London area that decided to start serving acceptable food.”

“And still keep that popular pub atmosphere,” I said.

“Pub,” Maury said. I almost said “What?” but I realized that he was dealing with a gastro issue when he added “Pubbbbbrrrrr.”

“Oh dear,” I said. “How do your guts feel?”

“Like a cobra and a mongoose getting to know each other,” Maury said. Then he raised an eyebrow, raised his index finger, stood up, and sprinted to the W.C.

Repainting birds

There’s been a discussing among some of my fellow editors in recent days about a word – the word complicitly – seen in a document. Should it be changed? But why? Well, it’s not in the dictionary. (“Which dictionary?” is of course another question.) But it fits in the sentence and there’s no problem understanding it. But it’s not in the dictionary! Maybe we should rewrite the sentence to be safe. Etc.

The is the point where I sigh, roll my eyes, and tell a little story.

A guy painting pictures and feeding the birds in a park sees a bird land near him and come up for some food. He doesn’t normally see birds that look like this one. He looks in his field guide to birds and it’s not in there. There’s one that looks like it but has yellow streaks on its wings. So he paints yellow streaks on the bird’s wings before feeding it. Of course, now the bird is going to have some social and aerodynamic problems, but at least it’s a real bird now.

I trust you see what I’m getting at.

Dictionaries are like field guides. They’re not legislation. They tell you what you can see in the wild, but they’re not always exhaustive, and they lag behind reality. We’re editing. We do what we do to enable and enhance communicative effectiveness. We’re not repainting birds.

infra dig

This little epithet is a favourite of mine. It has such mixed overtones, and its actual use embodies those contrasts: a slangy, casual clipping of a formal term, used by the confident, vaguely slumming elite to refer to something that is as beneath them as the term sounds like it is.

Let’s start with the echoes. Infra probably makes you think of infra-red (actually properly spelled infrared as one word, but for years in my youth I thought that this rhymed with impaired and did not connect it with the light of longer wavelength than red). Dig is what you do to go further into the ground, but it can also be what you do to something that’s groovy. I think infra dig sounds like the name of some late-’60s psychedelic music group, pumping out singles you can frug to.

But what it actually is is a clipping of infra dignitatem, Latin, ‘below dignity’. It belongs to that set of loose Latin usages characteristic of the rich educated set – the sort of toffee-nosed idle rich nobility who bounded around in the Edwardian era wearing whites during the day and always dressing for dinner. People of untold riches and status who always managed to have nicknames such as Binky and Chirps. Imagine P.G. Wodehouse. Or, better, think of any of several movies or series featuring Maggie Smith. You can just hear it: “Oh, but don’t you think that’s rather infra dig, dear?” You wouldn’t want to do something that would dig below you – which is to say undermine you – would you?

This is a term, then, that really speaks mainly of its user. The person speaking it is presenting himself or herself as familiar with Latin to the point of casualness, and not really pedantic about it – a person to whom things come easily, a person who is used to trailing off intonations in a croaky drawl, a person who is not accustomed to questioning his or her superiority. Perhaps these days toffs don’t use it so much; I don’t know. But at least some members of the intellectual elite do: the well-educated, erudite, learnèd and not ashamed to let it be known.

So of course I use this term. I may not be idle rich, but you will seldom find a person more secure in his self-location in the intellectual empyrean. What do I use it in reference to? Rhyming dictionaries, mainly. And anagram finders. To my mind, such things are as utterly infra dig as training wheels on a bicycle. Never mind the old toff idea that associating with the “lower classes” is infra dig. I don’t care about proving I’m rich or high-class – indeed, scorning people on the basis of income is quite beneath me (and not just because I’m not rich). But I simply don’t want to act like someone who, you know, needs help with words. You dig?

English isn’t the only language with messed-up spelling

Today: my latest article for TheWeek.com, on other languages with weird spelling, and how they get that way.

English spelling is terrible. Other languages are worse.

Many languages use an alphabet borrowed from a different language. It’s like building a dining room set using an IKEA kit for a dresser.

One little correction, a typo I spotted too late: in the Irish Gaelic, shuiamhneas should be shuaimhneas. Of course.

coolth

He switched on the air, and a pleasing coolth pervaded the room.

What?

I can write that he switched on the heat and a pleasing warmth pervaded the room, right?

So what’s wrong with coolth? Why would we treat it as uncouth?

Don’t bother saying it’s a non-word made up on analogy with warmth. They both come from the same formation, the one that also gave us truth from true, depth from deep, strength from strong (with a vowel alteration), length from long (ditto), sloth from slow, and a few others. And coolth has been in the language since the 1500s at least. It just happens that it has fallen out of favour in recent times and is now used mainly for humour or cuteness. You can still find it in the dictionary.

What are the alternatives? There is coolness. That, like coolth, adds a suffix. It looks perhaps more normal to us now; new words are still being made with ness. But it’s a longer word, and it lacks the minty fresh final sound of coolth. And would we brook warmness? Our alternative is just cool: “In the cool of the evening,” for instance. That uses an adjective as a substantive – in other words, it’s a conversion of an adjective to a noun. We do it with cold: “Come in from the cold.” But we don’t usually do it with warm or hot: “In the warm of the room”? “I have come to appreciate her hot” (rather than hotness)?

And what would the harm be of keeping forms parallel, and having a distinct and concise and soft cold word for the condition of being cool? Why must it now be just a funny form, a word-that-doesn’t-exist-but-should? I really can’t tell you why it has fallen out of fashion and become uncool.

But what we certainly see is that English does not hew much to logic and elegance and all that. No, it goes by what is cool and couth, what we are habituated to and what we have learned. Here is a rule; here are exceptions. Here is a word you see all the time; here is a word you would expect to see quite often but it just doesn’t show up. You infer that the words that should be there but aren’t are somehow, for some reason, uncool. Lacking in coolth, and therefore received without warmth – except the warmth of mirth. Words that match patterns but aren’t used are taken as signs of poor language understanding (we learn early that small children and illiterates use words like goed). And so, though they are cut from the same cloth, they are considered uncouth.

U-ie

There are some colloquial words that you might say casually every so often for your entire life and never have a good idea of how to spell, even if you’re highly literate. Today’s word may be about the chiefest among them.

You may not even recognize it on sight. What is it? It’s a colloquial term for a U-turn, as seen in phrases such as He pulled a U-ie, He did a U-ie, He made a U-ie, et cetera. It simply takes the U of the usual term and adds the ie suffix, a diminutive or derivative suffix (as in wheelie, meaning to rear up a vehicle on its hind wheel(s)). The suffix is normally spelled ie, so that’s why I spell it that way here; you can also see the word as U-y. And also Uy and Uie, and the same with a lower-case u. And every single one of them looks like a Dutch family name.

Or the stage name of a Korean pop star. Well, that would be Uee or Uie. Or Yui. She acts, she sings, she looks very, very pretty. I suggest looking her up. Especially if you like pictures of pretty Korean pop stars.

The awkwardness of the spelling of this word is just what we get for having such a slippage between the spelling of words and how they are pronounced. If we wrote everything in the International Phonetic Alphabet to reflect how it’s said, this word would be /ju i/. But, then, if we did that, we wouldn’t call it that, because the turn is shaped like U, not like ju.

I hope that you don’t mind that I put serifs on that U. Older Editions of the Chicago Manual of style specified that, for instances such as T-shirt and U-turn, where the letter described the shape of something, serifs should not be used on the letter as it may carry an implication that somehow the course of action has little flares on the ends. I always found that fatuous. People are not that stupid, and for that matter no one expects a T-shirt to be shaped exactly like a T even sans serif. So more recently the advice has made a 180˚ turn and now it allows the shape-descriptive letter to stay in the same font as the other letters.

The turn is also shaped like how this word moves in your mouth, though. Say these letters a few times in a row: U E U E U E. See how at one point the tongue is constricted towards the front, then it pulls back as the lips round, then the lips pull wide and the tongue is forward again, and on it goes, back and front and back and front, every time a boomerang – a U-turn.

mammothrept

Visual: This word seems a strange syncretism: the smooth mass of mammo exploding into the ripped mess of thrept. It’s like a string of firecrackers half exploded. Smooth bumps to the left; torn thorns to the right. Overall, long.

In the mouth: There’s little depth to this word: the consonants are almost all on the lips, except for a trip of the tip of the tongue across the teeth and ridge. The vowels are towards the front, going no farther back than the neutral reduced vowel in the middle. The word starts off soft and humming but then, as if a snare has been tripped, turns to the voiceless. And while the first two syllables are simple consonant-vowel, the last is a thick cluster of four consonants nesting just one vowel.

Echoes: You can’t avoid the mammoth. But also think of mammal and mammogram. And then, at the other end of the size scale from a mammoth, you have thrip, along with trip and rep and ripped and stripped perhaps threat. And maybe even strep throat. I suppose if you think about it you could find stripling, but that’s faint at best (mama’s stripling? hmmm). The ending also makes me think of bankrupt.

Etymology: This comes from Greek μαμμόθρεπτος mammóthreptos ‘brought up by grandmother’ (‘grandmother’ being μάμμη), by way of Latin mammothreptus ‘kept at the breast too long’. It has no relation to mammoth, which comes, somewhat modified, from Russian.

Semantics: A mammothrept, in English, is a spoiled child, or someone of immature judgement. This word is a silver salver version of twerp or douchebag.

Overtones: This word is obviously a very erudite insult. The odds are quite good that your hearer will not know its meaning until you explain it, but as long as you say it with the right intonation and in the right context, the general sense is likely to be clear. It has a sound of a muttering and a spitting, and it has about that taste, too, but coming from not an urchin but a dowager duchess.

Where to find it: You’ll find it in a play by Ben Jonson and a novel by Patrick O’Brian, and not much in between. But once you show this word to your friends, you’re sure to see it here and there in their writings.

How to use it: This word isn’t like an ace in the card game of conversation. It’s like slapping down an odd stone as your bet – a stone that could be priceless or worthless, but no one at the table probably knows which. It’s a big woolly mammoth ripping through the grass of verbiage. Use it in writing when you know your readers will look it up. Use it in speech when you can say it with about the same sound and tone as “Mmm, I’m’a throw up.” Make sure you say it so that it clearly starts with a “mamma” and not a “mammoth.”

fixin’s

You prob’ly know this word arredy, but if’n y’don’t, I guess I should tell ya that you almos’ allus see it in th’ same phrase: all the fixin’s. Sometimes they spell it with the apostrophe, sometimes not.

I jes’ thought I should tell ya that cuz maybe you mighta thought it was some kinda possessive or somethin’. But now, knowin’ that it’s a plural, d’ya think it’s wrong ta have that apostrophe? I mean, it’s not right to put “I deep fried two turkey’s,” cuz we don’t use apostrophes in plurals. But we do use apostrophes to indicate that somethin’s missin’. An’ here in this word it’s the g. One fixin’, or as many fixin’s as you can fit on yer plate. So there.

Cuz that’s what fixin’s are, right? All the side things you eat with the main thing. If I go to Bob Evans and get me some good country style steak (you may know it as chicken-fried steak), it comes with fixin’s like mash potatoes an’ white gravy an’ some carrots ’n’ peas ’n’ stuff. If’n you deep fry yourself a turkey, your fixin’s’re gonna be stuffin’ an’ mash an’ gravy an’ maybe some slaw an’ who knows, why not some grits too. Look, it’s alright, it’s recommended by the USDA, you kin read it right here. A dish jes’ ain’t right without some fixin’s next to it.

Now, fixin’s aren’t jus’ food things, you understand. Not originally. Why, they was all sorts of any kind of thing that was attached or made ready or accessorized to. You know, fixed up, fixed on, fixin’ to be. That’s how it was in the early 1800s. But now a lot of you won’t see this word at all except in some place where they want to be all homestyle an’ folksy ’n’ everything. You won’t see about the fixin’s of clothing cuz that’s not how they sell it. What’s homestyle? Why, comfort food, that’s what. That good ol’ home food made by honest folk who appreciate the good things in life like fat ’n’ starch. None o’ this fancy city folks stuff that ain’t even cooked an’ leaves you hungry.

And when you serve up some marketin’ text to tell people all about your country style food, you don’t just want the names of the things an’ some description. You want all the fixin’s. You want text that has jes’ as much backwoods southern homestyle as you kin manage ta git away with. So you kin go with the eye dialect – words spelled the way they’re said even though they’re said the same way everyone sez ’em, jes’ ta make it clear that these isn’t fancy edjicated folks. You know, ta an’ sez an’ kin an’ edjicated an’ so on. You might add some infixes, like abso-goldarn-lutely.  And you surely go with the apostrophes.

Funny thing, them apostrophes. They’re supposed ta indicate missin’ things. Well, in somethin’ like an’ or o’ they surely do. But when you write fixin’ and doin’ an’ so on, well, sure, the spellin’ is missin’ a g, but there ain’t no g when you say those words ever in th’ firs’ place. Nosiree, they jus’ have a velar nasal. An’ then, when you move it up to th’ front like even literate people an’ well-respected authors did into th’ early 1800s before the spelling pronunciation took back over, it doesn’t lose a g, right, it jes’ becomes a alveolar nasal. But we still put that apostrophe there. It’s sorta like that little [sic] that people put in quotes to show they know better.

You know what it is? I’ll show ya what it is. Ya see this? ; ) That’s a winky smile, right? OK, mister, so what’s this: ’ ? Why, it’s just a little wink. Every time you see that apostrophe there in fixin’s or anythin’ else like that, it’s a little wink that says, “Yessir, I’m homstyle, ah yep, I am.” An’ authentic as all get out. By which I mean you kin all get out if you think it’s authentic.

So but why not jes’ write it fixings? Well, goodness gracious me. You must be kidding. If we write it that way, we hear that velar nasal clear as day. Sounds like something some British chappy might say. Like this: “She was undeniably an eyeful, being slim, svelte and bountifully equipped with golden hair and all the fixings.” You know who wrote that? P.G. Wodehouse, that’s who. A man surely a complete stranger to grits.

any more, anymore

Dear word sommelier: When should I use “any more,” and when should I use “anymore”?

If you’re not Canadian or American, you can pretty much avoid this issue and use any more everywhere. But in Canada and the US, we have a merged form, anymore, that has taken on one specific sense and left the others to the old two-word version.

First let’s start with the parts. They’re good old Germanic parts, not borrowed from anywhere else. They’re so old and basic that they have multiple uses. Any can be an adjective (Do you have any idea?) or a pronoun (I don’t have any), but it can also be an adverb, modifying an adjective, and that’s what it is in any more and anymore. More can be a noun (I want more) or an adjective (I want more food) or an adverb (Could you be more specific?). In any more, it can be any of them; in anymore, it’s an adverb.

There are three general areas of meaning that you can use any more in, and anymore is used for just the last one:

Quantity. I don’t want any more. I want fifty dollars, and not any more than that.

Degree. I don’t like this any more than you do. I couldn’t possibly love you any more [than I already do].

Time. I don’t want you anymore. I don’t find this stuff amusing anymore. Do you do it anymore?

You may notice that the examples all have one important thing in common: they’re all negative phrases or negative-option questions. Actually, you can use any more in a positive phrase: Any more than this and we’re in trouble. But in standard English, anymore is always in a negative phrase or a question with a negative option. Not anymore can be paraphrased as not any longer or as no more or no longer.

Note that I said standard English. There are areas where it’s not so uncommon to hear positive anymore in ordinary speech: Anymore, we hold the parties indoors. We can see that for these speakers it has moved out of its place in a whole limiting phrase and has become a synonym for these days or now: We don’t do that anymore > We don’t do that these days; These days we do this > Anymore, we do this. I am not endorsing this usage for standard written English, although I wouldn’t be surprised to see it more mainstream some decades hence. But you should know that it exists. At least for some speakers, anymore is not a one-valence word anymore.

When you are considering serving this word in a sentence, you should pay attention to the rhythm – it trips quickly, not quite as long as any longer but less staid than no more or no longer. It’s a more common and casual usage, too, and is less likely to be seen in formal documents, where you may see wording using phrases such as in previous years and until recent times and prior to the current situation and so forth. There are really many ways to describe the aspect of time, and some of them take quite a bit of time themselves. Probably the most formal – and obviously poetically referential – alternative to not anymore would be nevermore. To get a sense of the difference, imagine Poe writing, “Quoth the raven, ‘Not anymore.’”

Thanks to my colleagues in the Editors’ Association who brought up this issue and helped me clarify my thinking on it.

nullifidian

In the April 23, 2013, Toronto Star (the local daily broadsheet), columnist Royson James, in an article about the possibility of a casino being built in central Toronto, wrote this:

Riding a backlash against centuries of Puritanism and uptight strictures, we’ve turned nullifidian, consumers of everything to the exclusion of nothing.

Ya gotta love newspaper columnists. They are the one place in daily journalism where you get not only considered opinion unburdened by the albatross of faux-impartiality but also decently used twenty-dollar words.

Nullifidian. The context may not give a perfect clue to the meaning. But if you happen to know your Latin roots, you know just what it means. Null, ‘nothing, none’; fid, ‘faith’ (as in fidelity and infidel), from fides (as in bona fides): together, ‘faithless, of no faith, disbelieving, believing in nothing, etc.’ Add connective tissue and an adjectival suffix and you get an eleven-letter, ten-phoneme, five-syllable word with a rhythm right out of Dave Brubeck (accent on the middle syllable), a veritable forest of ascenders and dots in the middle seven letters (bookended by nu and an, phonemically mirrors: /nə/ /ən/) with the twin steeples ll disintegrating into i and i and i with the bent f and bumped d.

So there it is. The church towers ll fall apart into the image of the self i i i and are bent and distorted and we fall out of the righteous quaternity of 4/4 time into the supersaturated metric quincunx. All is relative. We are tossing out rules and instituting an “anything goes” approach. It’s appalling and Sardanapalian. Take away the pillars and everything collapses.

Just the sort of thing I am occasionally accused of. When I point out that a certain “rule” of grammar has no real basis and no utility in communication other than that of excluding and condemning (you’d think we we would grow out of that after our adolescence), I am told I am saying there are no rules and that anything goes and am promulgating the destruction of the language. Which assumes the point at issue: that the “rule” is actually a rule, and a beneficial one. If I say that people need to consider the effect and utility of the rules they follow, I am branded nullifidian, relativist, wallowing fecklessly in the utter degradation of the language.

Funny thing, relativity. Motion is relative and yet we can still speak coherently about it and measure it usefully. Direction is relative and yet we can still find our way around. But somehow if one proclaims relativity of any prescriptive rule one is seen as being a nihilist. I find this view lacking in important understandings.

The equation that Royson James’s paragraph makes is a common one: that faith equals restriction, and openness equals lack of faith. If you are a free thinker, you are an unbeliever, which means you are faithless. Faith is unquestioning acceptance of a set of strictures and structures: have faith in the source that has given them to you. This maps to acceptance of rules, often arbitrary, for language as for other behaviours. In practice, this “faith” becomes enforcement of a set of rules that render a sphere controllable and predictable.

How much faith do you need when things are controlled and predictable? Tell me this: which is a greater act of faith, cultivating a bonsai tree with daily attention or planting an acorn and coming back after twenty years? Driving to work on the same route every day or sailing a ship into uncharted waters? Forcing a language into unchanging conformity or participating in its somewhat guided, somewhat channeled, but never entirely regulated or stifled development over time?

Yes, holding to a dogma is an act of faith; certainly, you are taking it on trust that these principles are valuable and their source reliable. But one does best to choose one’s sources of principles wisely and thoughtfully. And dogma can be a means of minimizing the faith necessary: what faith and trust is there in Procrusteanizing everything into preset categories? Not adhering to a dogma, on the other hand, does not mean lacking in faith; one may still have desiderata, principles, aims, experience, and a faith that this approach will produce good results and that one’s data and reasoning are sufficient. One may even believe in some “greater power” (or what have you) without believing that that greater power has imposed a set of restrictions that we are to enforce so as to limit the possibilities of the world.

So the historical use of the word nullifidian is a bit of question-begging, in that it assumes that if you don’t have faith in a specific religious position you thus have no faith in anything at all. And its association of nullifidianism (or nullifidy, I suppose) with a sybaritic, thelemite position is even more question-begging, because it assumes that if one believes in something it must be rules that prohibit such hedonism – and the converse implication is that if one does not hold truck with wanton oral-retentiveness, one is a person of their particular kind of faith.

All of these observations may seem to have nullified the validity of nullifidian as a word to use anywhere. But no. They have simply unshackled it, or at the very least pulled the drapes open on it. And you may always feel free to say nullifidian, allowing its delicious flow over the tip of your tongue and your teeth and lips: whether or not you believe it when you say it, you can still give it lip service.